UHMW Blunt Padding

Padding your UHMW Blunts

Follow these directions to pad and tape your new UHMW blunts and you should be OK in any kingdom that allows them, for crossbow or longbow. The directions may seem a little complicated, but you will make a superior arrow that flies straight, and lasts a long time. I'm still using my first UHMW arrows that I made over 3 years ago and they are holding up just fine. I assume you are familiar with the basics of arrow construction, such as taping the shaft and APD requirements. If not, see your combat archery marshal for your kingdom requirements.

You will need your fiberglass arrow shaft, strapping and electrical tapes, 1/2" thick camping pad, ruler, scissors and a marker.

Good luck!

Sun Lu-shan (MKA Daniel Slone)

			These are the tapes you will need: 3/4" or 1" strapping tape, and electrical tape of your color choice. You can go a little cheaper on the strapping tape ("Duck" brand is OK, but 3M is better), but always get the best electrical tape you can find, because that is the key to making your taping job last. I use 3M type 35.
			Tape the entire fiberglass shaft with strapping tape. 1" tape will allow you to cover a 1/4" shaft with one straight piece. Mark the shaft 1/2" from the end.
			Pound the blunt onto the shaft until you feel it seat all the way and you see that the blunt has reached the mark you made on the shaft. You will probably strip some tape off the shaft, but that is not a problem.
			This may seem a little strange, but it will make sense shortly. Instead of foam circles, cut 2 squares from 1/2" thick camping pad foam, each at least 1 1/4" but less than 1 1/2" wide. You can use a 1 1/4" circle, as seen on the right, but its hard to get the taping just right so it is not too compressed, or too loose. Plus, squares are much easier to cut!
			Cut 2 pieces of strapping tape, each about 8" long, and attach them to a square of foam, on the diagonal. Make the ends even all the way around.
			Tape the pad on to the face of the blunt, pulling the tape tight enough to compress the corners down around the sides, but not so tight as to smash the face of the padding. Pull the tape down and stick it onto the shaft itself, making it as smooth as possible
			Roll the blunt between your hands back and forth until the tape is plastered down all around.
			make a second pad with two 8" pieces of strapping tape identical to the first one. Put it on the face of the first pad, but rotated 45 degrees, and pull the corners down.
			Attach and roll the second pad just like the first, and you will end up with something like this. It's ugly now, but it gets better. Notice how the tension on the corners of the foam give it stability. This will keep it from rolling off to the side when it hits the target, giving you a more solid, longer lasting head.
			Cut a 2 - 3" piece of strapping tape and wrap it tightly around the shaft just at the base of the blunt. This will keep the tape from loosening and will keep your blunt on tight.
			This is a key step. Starting at the solid part of the blunt and working your way to the tip, wrap a tight spiral of strapping tape around the head. Your goal is to make a tight cylinder 1.25" across. Do not go so tight as to make it undersized, and overlap each layer about halfway. Along with making it look much nicer, your arrow will now fly straight and the head will survive repeated impacts.
			There we have the functional part of the blunt all taped up and ready to go except for the colored tape. I do not recommend using the arrow in this condiiton, because the strapping tape will not stay on by itself. Adding electrical tape is functional and aesthetically more pleasing!
			To finish off the blunt, add 4 strips of electrical tape, each about 8" long. attach them like the strapping tape, by stretching them over the sides of the head enough to keep the tape smooth.
			Stop stretching once you reach the the taper of the blunt. Let the tape relax, and push your thumb into the corner, smoothing the tape down around the shaft without any stretch at all.
			Run a spiral of electrical tape around the shaft for a couple of inches.
			Make sure your blunt is at least 1.25" across. If you have followed these directions carefully, this should not be a problem. Also, as suggested by Sir Tnek of Atlantia, after the taping is complete, verify that the foam has not been compressed to 1/2 inch or less. This can be done by inserting a pin into the face of the blunt until it contacts the UHMW, removing it, and measuring the depth it penetrated to. The standard for crossbows in Meridies is 1" of padding, and other areas may have more stringent regulations. One inch is attainable if you only compress the corners of the foam.
			The final bolt, complete with siloflex APD. I like to put a final band of contrasting tape just at the end of the spiral wrap for the finishing touch, and so I can easily identify my bolts and arrows in the huge pile at Gulf Wars.